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Using tap-water to fill your pond is normally fine for garden
ponds but it does need to be treated first. The chlorine in the
water will disappear over a couple of days and will do little
lasting damage, however more recently water companies have begun
adding chloramines (chlorine plus ammonia) instead of chlorine
to water which is just as damaging to pond life and persists in
the water longer. Inexpensive products to treat the water
available.
Topping larger ponds up in this way, if there is a leak, is
also generally fine in an emergency, though be aware that extreme changes of
water temperature can ‘shock’ animals if added in large amounts
at once. Tap water contains higher levers of nitrates than
natural pond water which can encourage the growth of problem
plants and algae. Running roof drainage into ponds helps to keep garden
ponds topped up or consider a water butt nearby. Don’t be overly
concerned about some of the water evaporating from the pond in
summer - pond life is adapted for water levels going up and down. In most years the pond will top itself up naturally in
the winter months.
In some cases ponds may collect run-off during heavy rain. In
most places this is not a problem, but be wary of nearby sources
of pollution (e.g. garden fertilisers, crop run-off). 'Natural'
and 'bio active' pond treatments are an option.
These aerate and clean the water, which is more of a necessity
for those with ornamental fish. For wildlife though, filters and
pumps aren’t necessarily useful: the ‘vacuum’ action of a pump
can kill phytoplankton and zooplankton, which can affect animals
further up the foodchain. Carefully chosen plants can be very
effective in keeping your water looking clean. A pump can be
useful to prevent ice in the winter but at other times of year
there is a high risk of creatures being sucked in.
Algae.
Pond plants.
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